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As a former organic market farmer, I’ve grown onions in every possible way. I’ve grown them from onion sets, from nursery-grown transplants, and from their little black seeds. Needless to say, I’ve learned quite a few tricks along the way, but I will tell you without a doubt that my best onion crops always start with planting onion seeds, not by planting onion sets or even by planting transplants. For me, planting onions from seed has always yielded the best results. But here’s the thing—you can’t just grow onions from seed like you do other vegetables. There’s a trick to doing it right.
Why planting onion seeds is better than planting sets
Onion sets are immature bulbs that were grown from seed that was planted in mid-summer of the previous year. The partially-grown bulbs are pulled from the soil in the fall and stored in a dormant state through the winter to be replanted the following spring. Many gardeners plant onions from sets because they’re widely available and it’s easy, but there are a few reasons why this may not be the best way to grow a good onion crop.

First, most gardeners make the mistake of choosing and planting the largest onion sets they can find when they should be picking the smallest sets instead. Texas A&M, Michigan State, and other university Extension Services note that bigger onion sets stop growing and go to flower sooner than smaller sets. When it comes to growing onions from sets, bigger definitely isn’t better; you’ll grow substantially larger onions by planting smaller sets.
Onion sets are easy to find at garden centers, big box stores, and even in the produce section of the grocery store, but just because they’re easy to find, doesn’t make them the best onions to grow. Typically, only two or three varieties of onions are commonly available as sets, but there are dozens and dozens of onion varieties available from seed that are likely to do better in your garden. Just like growing tomatoes and peppers from seed, growing onions from seed means you’ll have a wider range of varietal options. But, exactly which onion varieties are best for your garden, depends on where your garden is located.

Which type of onion is best for your garden?
There are three different types of onions and picking the right type is key to growing a great crop.
- Short-day onions are varieties that form bulbs as soon the days reach 10 to 12 hours in length. They’re perfect for southern gardeners below the 35th parallel whose days are slightly shorter throughout the growing season. If you grow short-day onions in the north, you’ll end up with tiny bulbs that go to flower early in the season because the bulbs stop growing as the days lengthen. Common short day onions are ‘Southern Belle’, ‘White Bermuda’, and ‘Granex’, to name a few.
- Long-day onions are varieties that form bulbs when the days reach about 14 hours in length. They’re best for gardeners in the northern tier of the U.S. and Canada. Long-day onions won’t form bulbs south of the 35th parallel because the days aren’t long enough to trigger bulb formation. Common long-day onion varieties include ‘Walla Walla’, ‘Ring Master’, ‘Red Zeppelin’, ‘Yellow Sweet Spanish’.
- If you live somewhere across the mid-section of the U.S., grow day-neutral onion varieties (also called intermediate day). Varieties like ‘Red Amposta’, ‘Early Yellow Globe’, ‘Cabernet’, and ‘Superstar’ are a good fit. These varieties begin to set bulbs when days range from 12 to 14 hours in length.
Aside from the ability to grow a wide variety of the right onions for your climate, growing onions from seed also means you’ll grow larger bulbs. But, this is only true if you grow onion seeds the right way.
Three ways of planting onion seeds

Planting onion seeds directly in the garden
Onions are cool-season crops that require 90 days or more to reach maturity. If you live in a warm climate with a long growing season, you may be able to grow big bulbs by planting onion seeds directly into the garden. But, because they require a long growing season, it’s best to try this method only if your climate is suitable, otherwise the growing season may not be long enough to grow full-sized bulbs. However, nearly all gardeners can grow green onions (aka scallions) by directly sowing the seeds into the garden. Plant the seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring and thin the seedlings to a distance of about 4 inches apart. You’ll find a fully detailed article on growing green onions here.

Planting onion seeds indoors under lights
As mentioned, because of onion’s long growing season requirement and their preference for cooler weather, planting onion seeds directly into the garden in the spring makes it difficult for the bulbs to reach a good size before warm temperatures arrive. This means, in most climates, the seeds have to be started many weeks in advance of moving the plants outside into the garden. To make matters worse, onion seedlings are also slow growing. So, if you want to grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights, you should start them 10 to 12 weeks before it’s time to plant them into the garden in early spring.
But, planting onion seeds indoors under grow lights is a bit more nuanced than growing other vegetables from seed. When growing the seeds of tomatoes, eggplants, and other veggies indoors under grow lights, the lights should be on for 16 to 18 hours per day. But, if you grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights and leave the lights on for that long, it will initiate an early bulb set and result in puny onions. That means that if you want to start onion seeds indoors under grow lights, start very early and only leave the lights on for 10 to 12 hours per day.
To me, all of that seems like an awful lot of work, so I’m now planting onion seeds using a different method that’s far easier and a lot more fun. It’s called winter sowing.
Planting onion seeds via winter sowing
If you want to skip the hassle of grow lights, heating mats, and other seed-starting equipment, growing onion seeds via winter sowing is the way to go. It works like a charm and is super easy. All you need is a packet of onion seeds, a plastic lidded container or old milk jug, and some potting soil formulated for seed starting. I start planting onion seeds via winter sowing anytime between early December and mid-February.

Here are the steps I use to winter sow onion seeds:
- Poke three or four 1/2″ wide drainage holes in the bottom of the plastic container (I use clamshell-type take-out containers or empty plastic lettuce packages, but you can also use plastic milk jugs cut around the middle). Also make two 1/2″ wide ventilation holes in the top of the lid.
- Open the container and fill it with three inches of potting soil.
- Sprinkle the onion seeds on top of the soil, casually spacing them about 1/4″ to 1/2″ apart.
- Cover the seeds with a sprinkling of potting soil and water them in well.
- Put the lid on the container and label it with a piece of tape and a permanent marker.
Once the seeds are planted, put the container in a protected, shady spot outdoors. I keep mine on a picnic table against the back of our house. It doesn’t matter if it’s freezing cold and snowy outside when you plant the seeds; they’ll just sit dormant until it’s the perfect time for them to sprout (just like Mother Nature intended!). Don’t bother clearing off any snow or protecting the containers from freezing weather. The seeds will be fine.

When the temperatures and day length are just right, your onion seeds will start to sprout inside the container. At that time, you need to start monitoring the moisture level inside the container, watering your seedlings when necessary. Open the lid on warm days and close it at night. If you get a hard freeze in the spring, after the seedlings have germinated, toss a blanket or towel over the container at night for added insulation.

This video shares more about growing onions from seeds vs sets.
As soon as your garden soil can be worked in the early spring, transplant your onion seedlings out into the garden (that’s usually mid-March in my Pennsylvania garden). Unlike onion seedlings grown indoors under grow lights, there’s no need to harden-off winter sown onion seeds because they’ve been outdoors from the start.

Planting onion seeds by winter sowing means the plants are subjected to the natural day-night cycle right from the time of their germination. This means that bulb set is triggered at the correct time and the plants can form large bulbs before hot temperatures arrive.
For more on growing great onions, also visit our article on Perennial Onion Varieties, as well as our articles on Harvesting Red Onions and Curing Onions After Harvest. To learn more about winter sowing, check out our detailed article on Winter Sowing Seeds.
Try planting onion seeds instead of sets this year, and enjoy a prolific harvest of these beautiful bulbs.



Thanks for this great winter seed starting method.
I’ve done winter sowing for several cold-hardy veggies in the past few years and it worked fine in zone 7A. I found it works even better setting the containers under some row cover.
The last two years I “planted” the plastic jugs in the garden at the level of the potting soil. Then I covered with row cover. I got more, larger seedlings and they came sooner. This is because the garden soil temperature is generally warmer than the air temperature in January and February.
Great idea, Bill. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Jessica, I just found your site and suggestions for starting onion seeds! I’m in zone 7a, never tried planting onions from seed. I have a long day variety. Wasn’t sure when I should plant the seeds for my area in order to try the winter sowing method. Do you think the beginning of January is to early? I also have leek seed I would like to try. Thanks so much for all the info, I will be perusing your site oftern, I’m sure!
Hi Elizabeth – In your zone, I would start the seeds anytime from late December through early March. They will not germinate until the conditions are right no matter when you plant them.
You are wrong about where Onion Sets come from.
Onion Sets grow in the flower of the mother onion plant, at
the very top. Rows of them appear after the onion flower matures. They are not made in soil as you think .
Hi John. Some onion species, Egyptian walking onions for example) do produce small bulbs at the tops of their flower stalks (called bulbils), but they are not the sets you purchase for spring planting. Those are grown as described in the article.
Hi, I used seed starting containers that are pretty small to start my onion seeds, is the depth of the soil extremely important? I also planted my seeds when it was 35 degrees and now its 55 with 50 degree temperatures forecast for the next week. Is that too warm?
Having a few inches of soil is important. If you have less, you’ll just need to transplant them a bit earlier in the growing season to give them more room to grow. If you have a few days in the 50s it is not a big deal. The seeds will sit dormant until growing conditions (including the day length, the soil temp, the air temp, and the soil moisture) are all perfect for supporting germination. On very warm days i suggest opening the container to keep it from getting too hot, but temps in the 50s or 60s or low 70s don’t require that.
I planted the Spanish Onions seeds directly into my garden last fall and now they are up about 6 inches. I live in Saskatchewan, Canada (middle of the province) where it can get to -40 in the winter but they came up great so not to wait till harvest to see how big the onions are by then.
Hi! I tried your method for some onion seeds, however I think I transplanted them too soon. They are in a sandwich size plastic tub and will go into my raised bed. Should I wait until I see a onion bulb or until I see some type of root system?
Nope. When they’re as thick as a dog’s hair, it’s time to transplant. If you wait until there’s a bulb formation, there is a greater risk of transplant shock.
I’ve heard of this method before, but I wonder if a step can’t be left out. Is there a reason why I couldn’t dig a trench in my garden for the onions in late fall, wait ’til full freeze up, fill the trench with warm(ish) soil, plant the onion seed and leave it for spring and nature to take the next step? That way there would be no transplanting. I can leave ground cloth over them to provide the shade required (and insulate slightly) if needed. Then come spring, remove the ground cloth and let the onions do their business. Wouldn’t this accomplish the same thing as using the clam shells, but without the transplanting?
You could try this, yes. However, there’s a good chance the seeds would rot before germinating since garden soil stays much more water-logged than light, well-drained potting soil does. There’s also a chance you would loose the seeds to ants, birds, chipmunks, mice, and other critters who eat seeds. Try it, though, and see how it does. If the seeds survive, there’s no reason they shouldn’t germinate when the temperatures are right.
I live in northern CA (Sacramento) zone 9. Thanks for the info about long/short day onions! My onions that I planted in the ground last fall are all beginning to form the seed stalk. They’re still young enough that I can use them like green onions. A couple years ago I had a variety that formed the biggest, nicest bulbs, but I have no idea what variety they were.
So if I understand your suggestions, for my growing area, I should choose long day onions. What time of year should I start the seeds? I assume I can plant them out whenever they are big enough to survive: they seem to winter over and not be impacted by the light frosts we get.
Yes; you would be long-day or day-neutral varieties. Start seeds in late winter or early spring for planting into the gardenas soon as the plants are as thick as a piece of embroidery floss. Onions tolerate heat well and will be ready to harvest when the greens die back and dry up, which should happen in late summer or early fall.
Great Info. really appreciate your help. Many Many Thanks JIM
Came across this article. Trying this, never had much luck with onions. My wife and I have grown garlic over 20 years with very good results between 240 and 350 heads. We are always interested in new ideas and ways to get good crops. Thank you for sharing.