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As a former organic market farmer, I’ve grown onions in every possible way. I’ve grown them from onion sets, from nursery-grown transplants, and from their little black seeds. Needless to say, I’ve learned quite a few tricks along the way, but I will tell you without a doubt that my best onion crops always start with planting onion seeds, not by planting onion sets or even by planting transplants. For me, planting onions from seed has always yielded the best results. But here’s the thing—you can’t just grow onions from seed like you do other vegetables. There’s a trick to doing it right.
Why planting onion seeds is better than planting sets
Onion sets are immature bulbs that were grown from seed that was planted in mid-summer of the previous year. The partially-grown bulbs are pulled from the soil in the fall and stored in a dormant state through the winter to be replanted the following spring. Many gardeners plant onions from sets because they’re widely available and it’s easy, but there are a few reasons why this may not be the best way to grow a good onion crop.

First, most gardeners make the mistake of choosing and planting the largest onion sets they can find when they should be picking the smallest sets instead. Texas A&M, Michigan State, and other university Extension Services note that bigger onion sets stop growing and go to flower sooner than smaller sets. When it comes to growing onions from sets, bigger definitely isn’t better; you’ll grow substantially larger onions by planting smaller sets.
Onion sets are easy to find at garden centers, big box stores, and even in the produce section of the grocery store, but just because they’re easy to find, doesn’t make them the best onions to grow. Typically, only two or three varieties of onions are commonly available as sets, but there are dozens and dozens of onion varieties available from seed that are likely to do better in your garden. Just like growing tomatoes and peppers from seed, growing onions from seed means you’ll have a wider range of varietal options. But, exactly which onion varieties are best for your garden, depends on where your garden is located.

Which type of onion is best for your garden?
There are three different types of onions and picking the right type is key to growing a great crop.
- Short-day onions are varieties that form bulbs as soon the days reach 10 to 12 hours in length. They’re perfect for southern gardeners below the 35th parallel whose days are slightly shorter throughout the growing season. If you grow short-day onions in the north, you’ll end up with tiny bulbs that go to flower early in the season because the bulbs stop growing as the days lengthen. Common short day onions are ‘Southern Belle’, ‘White Bermuda’, and ‘Granex’, to name a few.
- Long-day onions are varieties that form bulbs when the days reach about 14 hours in length. They’re best for gardeners in the northern tier of the U.S. and Canada. Long-day onions won’t form bulbs south of the 35th parallel because the days aren’t long enough to trigger bulb formation. Common long-day onion varieties include ‘Walla Walla’, ‘Ring Master’, ‘Red Zeppelin’, ‘Yellow Sweet Spanish’.
- If you live somewhere across the mid-section of the U.S., grow day-neutral onion varieties (also called intermediate day). Varieties like ‘Red Amposta’, ‘Early Yellow Globe’, ‘Cabernet’, and ‘Superstar’ are a good fit. These varieties begin to set bulbs when days range from 12 to 14 hours in length.
Aside from the ability to grow a wide variety of the right onions for your climate, growing onions from seed also means you’ll grow larger bulbs. But, this is only true if you grow onion seeds the right way.
Three ways of planting onion seeds

Planting onion seeds directly in the garden
Onions are cool-season crops that require 90 days or more to reach maturity. If you live in a warm climate with a long growing season, you may be able to grow big bulbs by planting onion seeds directly into the garden. But, because they require a long growing season, it’s best to try this method only if your climate is suitable, otherwise the growing season may not be long enough to grow full-sized bulbs. However, nearly all gardeners can grow green onions (aka scallions) by directly sowing the seeds into the garden. Plant the seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring and thin the seedlings to a distance of about 4 inches apart. You’ll find a fully detailed article on growing green onions here.

Planting onion seeds indoors under lights
As mentioned, because of onion’s long growing season requirement and their preference for cooler weather, planting onion seeds directly into the garden in the spring makes it difficult for the bulbs to reach a good size before warm temperatures arrive. This means, in most climates, the seeds have to be started many weeks in advance of moving the plants outside into the garden. To make matters worse, onion seedlings are also slow growing. So, if you want to grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights, you should start them 10 to 12 weeks before it’s time to plant them into the garden in early spring.
But, planting onion seeds indoors under grow lights is a bit more nuanced than growing other vegetables from seed. When growing the seeds of tomatoes, eggplants, and other veggies indoors under grow lights, the lights should be on for 16 to 18 hours per day. But, if you grow onion seeds indoors under grow lights and leave the lights on for that long, it will initiate an early bulb set and result in puny onions. That means that if you want to start onion seeds indoors under grow lights, start very early and only leave the lights on for 10 to 12 hours per day.
To me, all of that seems like an awful lot of work, so I’m now planting onion seeds using a different method that’s far easier and a lot more fun. It’s called winter sowing.
Planting onion seeds via winter sowing
If you want to skip the hassle of grow lights, heating mats, and other seed-starting equipment, growing onion seeds via winter sowing is the way to go. It works like a charm and is super easy. All you need is a packet of onion seeds, a plastic lidded container or old milk jug, and some potting soil formulated for seed starting. I start planting onion seeds via winter sowing anytime between early December and mid-February.

Here are the steps I use to winter sow onion seeds:
- Poke three or four 1/2″ wide drainage holes in the bottom of the plastic container (I use clamshell-type take-out containers or empty plastic lettuce packages, but you can also use plastic milk jugs cut around the middle). Also make two 1/2″ wide ventilation holes in the top of the lid.
- Open the container and fill it with three inches of potting soil.
- Sprinkle the onion seeds on top of the soil, casually spacing them about 1/4″ to 1/2″ apart.
- Cover the seeds with a sprinkling of potting soil and water them in well.
- Put the lid on the container and label it with a piece of tape and a permanent marker.
Once the seeds are planted, put the container in a protected, shady spot outdoors. I keep mine on a picnic table against the back of our house. It doesn’t matter if it’s freezing cold and snowy outside when you plant the seeds; they’ll just sit dormant until it’s the perfect time for them to sprout (just like Mother Nature intended!). Don’t bother clearing off any snow or protecting the containers from freezing weather. The seeds will be fine.

When the temperatures and day length are just right, your onion seeds will start to sprout inside the container. At that time, you need to start monitoring the moisture level inside the container, watering your seedlings when necessary. Open the lid on warm days and close it at night. If you get a hard freeze in the spring, after the seedlings have germinated, toss a blanket or towel over the container at night for added insulation.

This video shares more about growing onions from seeds vs sets.
As soon as your garden soil can be worked in the early spring, transplant your onion seedlings out into the garden (that’s usually mid-March in my Pennsylvania garden). Unlike onion seedlings grown indoors under grow lights, there’s no need to harden-off winter sown onion seeds because they’ve been outdoors from the start.

Planting onion seeds by winter sowing means the plants are subjected to the natural day-night cycle right from the time of their germination. This means that bulb set is triggered at the correct time and the plants can form large bulbs before hot temperatures arrive.
For more on growing great onions, also visit our article on Perennial Onion Varieties, as well as our articles on Harvesting Red Onions and Curing Onions After Harvest. To learn more about winter sowing, check out our detailed article on Winter Sowing Seeds.
Try planting onion seeds instead of sets this year, and enjoy a prolific harvest of these beautiful bulbs.



How large do the seedlings have to be before transplanting?
I used to do transplants but it’s expensive so I switched to sets. It might be too late to try seeds this season (It’s early Feb and I’m in zone 7) But I will give it a try next year.
Old timers used to say onions and leeks could be transplanted when they’re as thick as a hair on a dog, but I wait a bit longer than that to transplant mine. More like the thickness of embroidery floss.
what zone are you in?
Hi Christina. I’m in Pennsylvania, Zone 5.
On the winter sowing : is it watered and left to freeze/thaw/freeze/thaw … or do you leave it dry and let the elements water it through the top ventilation holes.
Water the seeds in right after planting and then leave it go. You may have to water it occasionally until spring’s arrival, but the condensation inside the container tends to keep it moist without any added input.
Jessica, Thank you for a wonderful, informative website devoid of noisy, blinking advertisements. I realize that you need to pay for your time and expertise somehow, and I appreciate the tasteful way you’ve done that.
I’m anxious to try your onion seed planting method. I’ve never done it like this before, but just bought my seeds and have plenty of containers to work with. Will let you know the results this summer. Any suggestions on keeping the onion maggot flies at bay?
Thanks, Mary, for your kind words. We’re glad you enjoy the Savvy Gardening site. Report back with how your onion seed planting goes. As for the onion maggot flies, I suggest covering your onions with a layer of floating row cover (also called reemay fabric). It’s lightweight and translucent, so you can leave it over your onion crop from planting time until harvest. It will keep the female flies from laying eggs that turn into those nasty little maggots. Good luck!
I haven’t had much success germinating onion seeds and I’m very glad I found this website and your advice. It’s mid winter here in the Uk. so I’m going to try your method soon.
I’ve just read the article and yiur response. I planted seeds in an heated propagator in mid-january in a cold but well-lit room. They are now happily sprouting. I’m in the south of England.
Hi Kevin, Like you, I live in England in the Midlands. I am going to try this onion seed method.
Thank you Jessica.
I’m curious about the shady bit… Does “shady” mean “no direct sun at all,” or “shady most of the day?” When would you move them to a more sunny spot, when you transplant them?
I keep mine in full shade, though as the spring temperatures warm, I open the lid and gradually start to expose them to more sun in the week or two prior to planting them out into the garden. This isn’t a necessary step, but one that I do with my own crop.
Love this idea! I am in southern Alberta, zone 3/4 (I am on the boarder of those zones) It is Almost March 1st, is it to late to try this?
Thank you
Hmmm. That’s a good question, Maria. I’m not sure how it would work that far north. Try it with a few seeds and let us know if your growing season is long enough for it to work. I’m curious to hear your results!
Even using indoor lights and putting them out in sheltered areas before finally transplanting them, my results were not as good as I had hoped. The seedlings were somewhat spindly. A couple of days ago I did my winter sowing and placed the plastic container in a shady area. Lets hope things work better for me !! I’m going to try it on some shallot and leek seeds too. Wish me luck, lol.
So, how did it work out for you?
I need to try this method! How fascinating. I’ve had to “baby” my onion seedlings every year under lights. It will be nice to plant them and leave them to do their thing for a while.
Julia
Winter Sowing works for most plants, too, in my experience! They grow best when the time is right for them, and they know that time better than any of us and what we try to replicate with grow lights and perfect conditions. Plants are hardy and know what to do to thrive!
will winter sowing work for shallots?
I haven’t tried it, but I can’t imagine why it wouldn’t work. Give it a try and let us know how it goes.
Yes you can, they are even hardier than onions!
When I put shallot sets in the ground, I do it as the same time as I plant garlic in the late fall, not spring!
I enjoy your website and I read a lot and I’ve learned a lot from all the articles and things that you post on your website. I have a question do you think this sowing of onion seeds in the winter would work on potato seeds?
It might, but potatoes aren’t typically grown from seed as it takes quite a while for the plants to mature enough to form tubers. Typically when grown from seed, they need more than one season. I suggest starting potatoes from seed potatoes (which are not actually seeds) as per the info and instructions in this article: https://savvygardening.com/how-to-plant-seed-potatoes/
I always sow my onion/shallot seeds in flats at the end of Autumn then plant out as soon as the seedlings are able to be handled. Be careful when lifting them from the flat as you want as much root as possible on the plant. If you let the seedlings grow too big, you can trim the tops and the roots a bit to make planting easier. You have to keep the planted out seedlings moist so a soak hose and timer is useful. The seedlings will look a bit sad for a week, but will soon stand up and get growing.
When you plant out the seedlings, make a furrow about an inch deep and lay the seedlings 6 inches apart on one side of the furrow, then draw a little soil over the roots from the other side and press it down over the roots with a short piece of wood.