Have you ever thought of adding a lavender hedge or border to your garden, or a mini lavender “field” to a part of your yard? If you are patient, consider growing lavender from seed. While it can be a little challenging, particularly if you are a beginner, there are a few best practices you can follow in order to successfully start your own lavender seedlings. And, it can help save you money.

Choosing a reputable seed supplier is one of the most important parts of the seed-starting process. Both the variety and age of your lavender seeds can significantly affect germination rates and the number of healthy lavender plants you’ll grow. Certain seed pre-treatments also can influence the steps you’ll take and the amount of time required to go from seed to transplant.

Why grow lavender from seed?

By growing lavender from seed, you can select the best varieties for your specific needs and growing conditions. Growing lavender from seed on your own can also save you a lot of money—especially if you have a large area you want to plant.

If possible, choose “pre-primed” seeds. Seed providers sometimes use natural acids to break lavender seed dormancy. Such pre-priming improves germination rates and eliminates the need for cold stratification before planting.

Some varieties to try include:

• Munstead lavender (Apex-primed seeds)
• Munstead lavender (regular seeds)
• Hidcote lavender (Superior-primed seeds)
• Hidcote lavender (regular seeds)
• Vera lavender
• Wooly lavender
• English lavender
• Grosso lavender
• Ellagance Purple lavender

When to plant lavender seeds

The best time to plant lavender seeds indoors is one to two months before your average last frost date. Following this schedule helps to ensure that your seedlings will have developed enough of a root system to be able to withstand transplanting once the weather warms up in early spring.

Growing lavender from seed indoors

Lavender seeds naturally have a dormancy period that must be disrupted before they’ll sprout. If you plant pre-primed lavender seeds, this dormant state has already been disrupted. For any other lavender seed, you’ll need to break its dormancy yourself.

To do this, sprinkle the seeds onto a moistened paper towel, carefully fold and place inside a zip-top plastic baggie. Label and date the outside and then keep the bag in the crisper drawer of your fridge for about four weeks. This “cold stratification” process simulates winter.

Gather your seed-starting materials

Here’s what you’ll need when growing lavender from seed indoors:

• Seed trays: Shallow trays with multiple cells work best.
• Lightweight growing medium: A good-quality seed-starting mix (there are recipes here) is ideal for holding moisture without smothering plant roots.
• Seedling heating mat (optional): Lavender seeds germinate in temperatures between 65 to 70°F (18 to 21°C.) If your room temperature is very cool, add a heat mat to boost growing medium warmth.

Sowing lavender seeds

You may’ve heard that lavender seeds are “photoblastic”—meaning they need ample light to break dormancy and sprout. This isn’t actually true. While lavender seeds must remain close to the soil’s surface to sprout, it has nothing to do with light. If lavender seeds are planted too deeply, they’ll deplete their stored energy before they can penetrate the topsoil.

So, when sowing seeds, make sure your moistened potting mix stays fluffy as you barely make an impression on its surface with your finger. Next, drop seeds here, mist lightly, and top with a sprinkling of potting mix.

Growing lavender from seed outdoors

For seeds that haven’t already been cold stratified, you can let Mother Nature do the work for you by scattering your seeds directly in the garden a few months before your last frost. Provided your seeds are in a moist, cool environment—about 40°F (or 5°C)—they’ll break dormancy when the weather warms up.

If, on the other hand, you’re scattering pre-primed seed, you should wait until your outdoor soil temps are consistently 65° to 70°F (18 to 21°C.)

Should you cover lavender seeds with soil?

When growing lavender from seed, you should lightly cover them—just not with heavy garden soil! That’s because lavender seeds are very small and lightweight. If they’re planted too deep or they get smothered with heavy soil, the seeds can run out of energy before they’re able to reach and, ultimately, break through the soil’s surface.

Instead, cover seeds just a little with a scant sprinkling of sand, vermiculite, or potting mix. This helps keep seeds anchored and moist.

How long does it take for lavender seeds to germinate?

Your seedlings should be up in two to three weeks. Don’t see any sprouting in your tray? The seeds may need to be cold stratified. (See “Growing lavender from seed indoors” for details.) It’s also possible that they were planted too deeply or the seeds themselves were no longer viable.

Caring for your lavender seedlings

Once your seedlings start to grow, here is some advice to take care of them until they’re ready to be hardened off and planted outside.

• Direct sunlight: Provide seedlings with at least six hours of bright light daily.
• Water: Water lightly every few days, allowing the soil’s surface to dry out between waterings. (This drought-tolerant herb is susceptible to the pathogens that contribute to root rot.)
• Pruning or pinching: Once seedlings are at least two inches tall, you can pinch off plant tips to encourage branching.

Transplanting the seedlings

Before transplanting to the garden, amend the soil with organic matter, such as finished compost, as needed. Also, be sure that the danger of frost has passed. (If it hasn’t, you may need to move seedlings to larger pots instead.)

Periodically apply an all-natural, slow-release fertilizer to help plants become established. Your new transplants should bloom by their second year.

Other ways to propagate lavender

Besides growing lavender from seed, you can propagate lavender by rooting cuttings from established plants.

In fact, if you want to grow lavendin—a lavender hybrid—you’ll need to obtain nursery stock or start your own plants from lavendin cuttings, since seed from popular lavendin varieties like Provence either won’t germinate at all or won’t be true to type.

More perennials to grow

• Wild columbine
• Spotted bee balm
• Echinacea
• Perennials that bloom all summer