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Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow producing heavy yields of tasty tubers when planted in garden beds and containers. Plus, there’s so many awesome potato varieties to grow – from fingerlings to russets – in a rainbow of colors. But because the crop is produced below ground, it’s hard to tell when the tubers are ready to dig. So, how DO you know when to harvest potatoes? In this article I’ll share expert tips on harvesting and storing your homegrown spuds.
When to harvest potatoes?
Harvesting potatoes is so much fun, even the kids will want to help. It’s like digging for buried treasure – treasure you can eat! There are two main types of potatoes: new potatoes and storage potatoes, and both harvesting time and techniques differ between the two types. Because I want both new potatoes for summer cooking and storage potatoes for fall and winter, I plant at least one bed of each. Figuring out when to harvest potatoes can be a challenge for new gardeners, but once you know the basics, timing the harvest is a snap!
- New potatoes – All potatoes can be new potatoes if harvested when the tubers are still small and thin-skinned, about 50 to 55 days from planting the seed potatoes for early maturing varieties. The first sign that new potatoes have formed are flowers. At that point, feel free to start harvesting from the potato plants. For a long harvest of new potatoes, stagger your seed potato plantings or plant early and late maturing varieties. That way you can enjoy tender new potatoes from late June through August.
- Storage potatoes – Storage potatoes, also called main-crop potatoes, are ready at the end of the growing season when the foliage has turned yellow and begun to dry, often after a frost. At this point they have reached maturity. In my zone 5B garden I harvest my storage potatoes in late September through October. Some gardeners cut back the leaves while others allow them to die back naturally. Either way, the tubers need to be left in the ground for about two more weeks. This encourages the skins to thicken up and results in better storage quality.

For a tutorial on when to harvest potatoes and how to do it right, check out this video by Savvy’s Jessica Walliser.
How to harvest potatoes
Pick a dry day to harvest potatoes as moisture can spread disease and rot. What’s the best way to harvest? Carefully! Whether you grow your potatoes in raised beds or directly in the ground, try to avoid piercing or slicing the potatoes when digging the tubers. If your spade does slip, eat damaged potatoes right away. I find it handy to keep a bowl nearby for damaged tubers which then head directly to the kitchen. Potato scab is a common potato disease and any affected potatoes are also taken to the kitchen as they may not store well.
New Potatoes – After the plants flower, usually sometime in mid to late July, start harvesting new potatoes by reaching into the side of the hill and taking a few tubers from each plant. I use a gloved hand, not a tool, for this task as I don’t want to damage the plants and I want to keep my hands (relatively) clean. Once I’ve harvested a few new potatoes from each plant, I push the soil back in place and mound it around the plants. They’ll continue to grow and produce more tubers.
Storage Potatoes – To harvest storage potatoes, insert a garden fork about a foot away from the plant and gently lift the root mass. Shovels may also be used. There may still be a few potatoes in the ground, so use a gloved hand to feel around for any missed tubers. Once harvested, gently brush off caked on soil and allow them to dry off for an hour or so outdoors. Do not wash the tubers.

Harvesting potatoes from containers and straw beds
If harvesting new potatoes from a container or potato grow bag, reach into the soil to feel around for the tubers, taking just a few from each plant at any one time. After harvesting new potatoes from in-ground or container plants, feed them with a fish emulsion fertilizer to encourage healthy growth and more tubers. Container grown storage potatoes can be easily harvested by dumping the container onto a tarp or in a wheelbarrow. Sift through the soil with your hands to grab all of the tubers. Learn how to grow potatoes in containers in this short video.
If harvesting potatoes from a bed mulched with straw, use a garden fork to carefully lift off the layer of straw. Most of the tubers will have formed in the straw mulch and be dirt-free. Gather them up for curing.
Prepare the soil for next year
Once the potatoes have been harvested, I sow a cover crop or add a source of organic matter, like manure or compost, to the top of the bed. The autumn and winter weather will work it down into the top few inches of soil. If you’re not sure of your soil pH, this is also an ideal time for a soil test. It’s also important to consider crop rotation and keep track of where you grew potato family crops, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Planting these crops on a 3 year rotation cycle can reduce pests and soil-borne diseases. Check out this article for suggestions of what to plant after potatoes.

How to store potatoes
Before they can be stored, potatoes need to go through a curing process. This helps the skin thicken up and extends the storage life of the tubers. To cure potatoes, lay them on newspaper, trays, or cardboard in a cool, dark spot (50 to 60 degrees F, 10 to 15 degrees C) with high humidity for one to two weeks. Pick a location that offers good air circulation or add a fan to the room.
Once cured, move the potatoes (removing any that have signs of damage) to bushel baskets, cardboard boxes (with ventilation holes poked in the sides), low baskets, potato bags, or brown paper bags. Don’t pile them too deeply, however as that can encourage rot to spread. Cover containers with cardboard or sheets of newspaper to block light. Light turns the tubers green and green potatoes contain solanine, a toxic alkaloid that makes them taste bitter.
The best storage area for potatoes
The storage area should be cooler than the curing site and be dark and well-ventilated. I use a corner of my basement, but a root cellar is best if you have one. You can also store potatoes in a garage, but it should stay above freezing. Aim for the ideal temperature of 40 to 45 degrees F (4.5 to 7 degrees C) with high humidity. Under ideal conditions, storage potatoes can retain quality for six to eight months in long-term storage. Check tubers regularly and remove any that show signs of rot or shrivelling.
The thin skin that makes new potatoes so appealing limits their storage life to weeks not months. Therefore, enjoy new potatoes soon after harvesting them.

Do you have any tips to add on when to harvest potatoes? Leave them in the comments below.
For more on growing potatoes in a garden, check out these awesome articles:



Just felt the need to give a shout out to Niki Jabbour!! She has been OVERLY helpful, patient with each and every question, and even showed class for the people who ARE rude and disrespectful.
Do not post something ugly when it is a platform to ask legit questions and pray you get an actual response (as she has clearly done and THEN SOME). That is what deserves accolades!! Thank you for being you Niki!! You ROCK!
I technically am here reading ALL THIS “stuff” because I was blessed graciously with TWO green thumbs from my late PawPaws.. I’m growing about 10(ish) potatoes in containers. They have sprouted.. some big/little with their little stalks and leaves but I was thinking of putting them in the ground. They seem sturdy soooo any advice as to where I should place them?!?
I’m in southern Louisiana. Warm here majority of the time. I just know they like being watered from their base (bottom to top) so if I plant them in the ground, they will have no choice but to receive their watering from above or sucking it from beneath… right?!? Suggestions?!?.. and please let me apologize on behalf of the inappropriate, rude, nobodies you’ve dealt with. Us ‘OTHERS’ ALL appreciate ANY and ALL advice. Some people are just trolls and want others to feel as miserable as they feel inside themselves. You are doing awesome!! Know your WORTH and know that everyone you respond to and every person you interact with each day; are BETTER because of YOU! Plant or no plant. You show nothing but class and respect for each person and question. So thank you.. I appreciate YOU. I wish they made more of you.. take care. XOXO
We always wonder when to stop watering our potatoes….when the plants start dying back or sooner?
Thanks
Excellent question!! It’s usually about 2 to 3 weeks before you intend to harvest, or when you notice the leaves starting to yellow. – Niki
Hi Niki,
I bought the bags to plant potatoes, I have tall beautiful plants does this mean I willn’t have potatoes? They are blooming I will go snip off the blooms. I would love to peak at them. there is a flap where I can but so scared that there is nothing there. I’m in East Tennessee and it’s really hot.
Hey Pam, great questions!! First, sounds like your plants are doing awesome. I would keep adding more soil until the soil reaches the top of the grow bags. This can encourage more tubers to form. Also, you mention hot weather, it’s vital to make sure your plants have consistent moisture – if they’re water stressed, tuber formation may decrease. Once plants flower, there should be little tubers – baby potatoes!! You can sneak in to grab a few. But keep watering and you’ll soon have plenty of potatoes 🙂 Good luck! Niki
I haven’t grown potatoes for years. This year, I decided I would try my hand at it. My question is, should I give them ‘hair cuts’ like I do my tomato plants?
Great question Tammy! And no, you don’t need to prune potato plants. The more leaves and shoots, the more tubers will form. Hope you have a great harvest! – Niki
I dry can my small and new potatoes. Please do you own research on this process but I have wonderful canned potatoes throughout the year. I was purchasing my potatoes from Amish country in Tennessee but thanks to your tutorials I now grow my own.
Hi … I’m in Southern New Brunswick. I have 20 Kennebec potatoes growing that have not flowered except for 1 in a container. First time this has happened (the deer usually get the flowers lol). They are at week 15 the leaves are starting to yellow and die back a bit. Will they still produce tubers? Thanks
Hi John.. that is odd but I’d bet you’ve got a bunch of tubers under the soil. They probably won’t put on much more growth if the leaves are dying back, but if you want to store the tubers I’d leave them in the soil for another couple of weeks to thicken up the skin. If you’re curious though (I know I am!) you can dig up a plant and see how many tubers you’ve got. Do let me know what happens when you harvest. Best of luck! – Niki
Wow just noticed I had never responded. No flowers and from 20 plants only had 10 pounds of small taters. At least 8 people we know of encountered the same issue. It was very hot last summer much hotter than usual for 2 months. Even the tomatoes were affected while the harvest was great more than expected the scotia tomatoes formed a very tough skin cause it was so hot. Never had as many hot peppers either six cayenne plants produced 100 nice sized peppers. Not as warm this year so far
I am in Kent in the UK and although a gardener for many years only just trying my hand at veg due to the pandemic and more time available. My potatoes are in sacks and have grown really well but your information has been so helpful with regard to the harvesting of them. Looking forward to great crops. Thank you so much.